Fleece Flower Pillows

  SUPPLIES:
Fleece (1/2 yard in the color of your flower, plus some coordinating scraps for the center and leaves) You could also use felt, but I think fleece is softer!
Scissors
Hot Glue Gun

DIRECTIONS:
1. Cut two circles out of your fleece. The size is up to you. I traced a large bowl and my circles were about 14". Sew (or hot glue) around the edges, leaving an opening for stuffing. Next, using a piece of chalk or marking pen, trace a smaller circle for the center of your flower and three additional rings to make a bullseye design.

2. Cut out four leaf shapes. I just eyeballed them. Then sew the leaves together along the outside edges and add stitched leaf veins. (You could also just hot glue the edges and draw the veins on with fabric paint or markers.)

3. Add stuffing to your pillow and stitch (or glue) closed the opening. I then used pinking shears to trim the edges of the pillow and leaves to make it a little more decorative (optional).

4. Using hot glue, attach the leaves to the edge of your pillow. The edges are "pinked" and the leaves are attached.

5. Cut out a bunch of petals. Again, I just eyeballed a petal-like shape. You could make them wider/narrower/more rounded/more pointed, etc. depending on what you want your flower to look like. I made them in two sizes, a larger one for the outer petals, a smaller one for closer to the center. I actually cut out and used a lot more, probably 50-60 or so.

6. Starting on the outer ring of the bullseye you traced, start gluing down your petals. I found it worked best to put a line of glue along the bottom of the petal, pinching the center to give it a little dimension, then attaching it.

7. Once the outer row is complete, start working on the next ring of petals. I added an additional drop of hot glue to each petal to help hold it down and cover the line where the first ring of petals were attached. Use an additional drop of glue on the inner rings of petals.

8. Keep adding petals until your flower is complete. I used the larger petals for the outer two rows, a mix of large and small for the next row, and all small petals for the inner row.

9. Cut out some circles to create the center of your flower. (I used pinking sheers again). For each circle, add a bit of hot glue to the center and squish it to form a little ruffle-y shape and attach them to the center of your flower to fill it in.

Source: http://cometogetherkids.blogspot.com/p/ideas.html

Sewing Tutorial To Do List

Here are some tutorials I want to try when I have time.

http://sewmuchado.blogspot.com/2010/02/refashion-tutorial-toddler-ruffle-skirt.html

http://sewretrochic.blogspot.com/2009/10/shirred-mod-top-tutorial.html

http://www.prudentbaby.com/2010/04/most-flattering-shirt-dress-diy.html

http://sewhappytocraft.blogspot.com/2010/04/gymboree-inspired-tank.html

Reversible Sun Top

SOURCE: http://www.u-createcrafts.com/2010/06/reversible-sun-top-tutorial-by-from.html


Use 1/4 inch seam allowance unless otherwise noted.


What you will need:

- Aprox 1/2 yard each of two different fabrics

- 1/2 inch elastic

- Sewing machine, thread, and all that stuff

Your Pieces:

When you are done cutting you will have 6 pieces.

2 shirt panels

4 Strap Pieces


To cut these you need to take a couple of measurements from your kiddo.

1. Measure all the way around your child's chest (We'll call this measurement A)

2. Measure mid chest, up over the shoulder to the same spot on the back- This is for the strap length.

(We'll call this measurement B) Be conservative on the measuring so the straps don't end up too long.

3. Measure mid chest down to where you want your top to end. (We'll call this measurement C)


Shirt Panels (cut 1 of each fabric)

Measurement A multiplied by 1.5 + 1 inch

For example my measurement A was 23 inches X 1.5 + 1 inch = 35.5 inches

Now take Measurement C and add 1/2 inch

For example my measurement C was 13 inches + 1/2 inch = 13.5 inches

I am going to cut two panels (one of each fabric) 35.5 inches by 13.5 inches

Straps (Cut 2 of each fabric for a total of 4)

Measurement B multiplied by 1.5 + 1/2 inch by 1.75 inches (all sizes)

For example my Measurement B was 10 inches X 1.5 + 1/2 inch = 15.5 inches .

I am going to cut 4 pieces (2 of each fabric) 15.5 inches by 1.75 inches

Let's get sewing! Take one strap piece of each fabric (so you will have two strap pieces which are different). Right sides together sew down the long edges leaving the ends open. Do this with the other two pieces.

Turn your straps and press. Top stitch in from either side 1/4 inch. This is going to be the casing for your elastic.

Cut two pieces of elastic the length of your measurement B + 1/2 inch. So I cut two pieces of elastic 10.5 inches. using a safety pin insert into the casing of each strap. Sew the very ends just to secure the elastic. Even out the fabric along the elastic to create nice pretty gathers. Set straps aside.

Grab one of your shirt panel pieces and fold right sides together sewing down the short end. You will create a tube like shown. Now opposite your seam sew along the fold 1/4 inch. I like side seams on things. If it doesn't bother you just having one seam you can skip this step. Do the same thing with the other shirt panel.

Take one of your shirt "tubes" and using a ruler mark into thirds. Pin your straps to the two marks you made. Your opposite fabric should be facing up.

Take the other end of your straps and pull under your shirt panel and up to the same spot on the other side. Pin.

Place inside your other shirt panel, right sides together matching side seams. It is a good idea to pin all the way around. I'm going to be a rebel and not pin. I like to take risks like that. Sew all the way around and remove pins.

Turn right side out and press. This is what you should have so far.

Top stitch along the top edge 1/2 inch in. Then in again a little more than 1/2 inch to create a casing for your elastic. The second line of sewing you do make sure you leave an opening of about an inch to insert your elastic. To create an even line of stitching I just place my elastic on top lined up to my first row of stitching to make sure I am going to have a wide enough casing. I am just using the elastic as a ruler, not sewing it!

Cut a length of elastic equal to measurement A. Putting your hand up between both layers of your top insert your elastic. Sew ends of elastic together and then close up the inch you left open to insert the elastic. This is what you will have now. Almost done!

Press up your shirt panels 1/4 inch. I am showing you one panel. Do this with both.

Top stitch the bottom hem in about 1/8 inch. Your hem should be completely even on both sides and the top stitching should show through on the other side on the same spot. This will enclose the raw edge of the bottom of your top. You're done!

Hooded Towel Bathing Suit Cover Up

SOURCE: http://crafterhours.blogspot.com/2010/06/beach-towel-dresses-tutorial-ish.html


No real tutorial for these, as they were stunningly easy to make, but here is a run down to show you what I did.
These are the pieces you'll need. The red lines that I drew indicate where you want to use the finished edges of the towel to save yourself some work.
First, ruffle the trim and sew it to the bottom of the dress pieces. Sew the two hood pieces together.

Then sew the dress together on the side seams and shoulder seams. Sew the hood to the neckline. Finish the arm holes and neckline with bias binding. When you sew the bias binding around the neck, make sure you catch the hood's seam allowances also.
That's it!

Ruffle Flower Onesie

SOURCE: http://mintnclandycreate.blogspot.com/2010/04/flower-ruffle-onsie.html


Materials:

Scissors
Ruler/Measuring Tape
Lighter/Candle
Bowl of water
Synthetic Fabric
Beads or buttons
Fabric paint with small tip (or q-tip)
Cordinating Thread
Onesie


Directions:

1. Begin by cutting various sizes of circles out of your synthetic fabric. You'll want Large, medium and small circles.

2. Light your candle, or grab your lighter. Make sure your bowl of water is nearby. Hold the circle of fabric just outside the flame, so that the fabric is melted slightly around the edges. Approach this as you would if you were roasting marshmallows & BE CAREFUL! You don't actually want to catch the fabric on fire. Using a synthetic material is also important - natural fibers won't singe.
3. Once your petals have all been prepared, arrange concentric circles. I used 1 large, 3 mediums & 3 smalls for the corsage on the front of the onesie and several large & smalls for the bottom ruffle. You can play with the arrangements. Some fabrics look better with more layers. For the corsage ruffles, this is the point where you would place your bead on top, and sew through the bead with your thread doubled. Knot it on the back of the flower and repeat until the bead is securely fastened.
4. Secure the flowers to the front of your onesie by hand following the same technique as above - through the bead. After all flowers are in place, sew through all layers from the wrong side of your onesie out through the flower layers to create anchor points to keep flower from wrinkling up after washing.

Step back & admire your handiwork! Your front is finished.
5. Measure up 3 inches from the edge of the leg on the onesie. Arrange your flowers in a straight line and across the onesie and pin in place. I chose to use only large and small petals at this point. Gradually move them through your machine, being careful to pull the pins out before sewing & make sure the petals are laying flat as you continue sewing in a straight line. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your line of flowers to secure them in place. (You could hand sew these if you are uncomfortable with a machine. Just be sure to secure your flowers in place). The sizes of the flowers can vary some, so don't worry if your circles are imperfect. These imperfections give it more personality. I used 7 flowers across the length of the onesie.
6. Using fabric paint, dob the center of each flower to bring them to life. I chose not to use beads on the back, to make it more comfortable & practical for little ones to wear.

Tulle Ruffly Skirt

Source: http://pinkpicketfence.typepad.com/pink_picket_fence/2009/04/her-tulle-skirt-the-new-fave.html

Specifics:

The skirt base: I made this skirt less full than usual -- the tulle makes it full enough. Wait to add the elastic at the end.

The ruffles: The tulle strips are about 2" wide. I think I used a half yard, total.

I attached all the tulle strips together before gathering, so it went quickly. I didn't worry about backstitching or anything.

I made a long stitch (you'll have to experiment) down the middle of the strip and it gathered itself. At first I had it on 'basting' stitch, but it was actually too gathered.

Attaching the ruffles: I started at the top of the skirt. When I got to the end of a row, I overlapped the ruffle a half inch, cut away, backstitched, and then eyeballed the next row and started sewing again. The ruffle really doesn't come undone.

Care: In my experience, you can wash tulle just fine (a lingerie bag works well), just don't put it in the dryer. I wasn't too bright and used linen for the skirt, so I am going to have to iron this one from the inside out, very carefully. Oops. Good thing these are fast in case I have to make a replacement. (Know what would work nicely? A no-iron percale sheet. I'll have to remember that for next time.)

Ruffly Skirt

Source: http://littlebirdiesecrets.blogspot.com/search/label/kids?updated-max=2009-08-12T16%3A05%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=20

Basic Ruffle Instructions

Make this skirt:
http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2008/08/lazy-days-skirt-free-pattern.html

Then, before adding the elastic waist to the skirt, I marked the skirt in 1 ½ inch intervals to help me see where to sew on my ruffles. I then took a contrasting fabric and cut them into 1 ½ inch pieces, selvage to selvage (about 44 inches). You need about two of these pieces per ruffle tier on your skirt. I then used my serger to finish the edges of my ruffles so they won’t fray. If you like the frayed look you may want to skip this step. If you don't have a serger, you can either zig zag or overcast stitch your ruffle pieces with your sewing machine.

Next, using my sewing machine and some tweezers, I scrunched up the ruffles as I sewed them down to the skirt using my marked lines. (This keeps your fingers out from under the needle!) Once the ruffles were on, I added the elastic. I made this skirt a little big for my girl because I want her to be able to wear it longer than a month—kids grow so fast!

Little Chick Tutu Costume

Source: http://littlebirdiesecrets.blogspot.com/search/label/kids?updated-max=2009-11-30T08%3A53%3A00-08%3A00&max-results=20

Little Chick Tutu Costume


Supplies:

*One or two rolls of 6" wide yellow, white, or blue tulle, depending on what kind of bird you want to make (found in the wedding section at your local craft store)
*Feathers to match your tulle
*Hair clip
*No-roll elastic
*Hot glue gun and glue
*Sewing machine and thread

Okay, let's get started!

1. First, measure your child's waist. Subtract one inch from that number and cut your elastic that length. For example, if my child's waist is 12 inches, then I would cut an 11 inch piece of elastic. Sew the elastic together at the short ends so you have a ring like below.

2. Next, cut your tulle. I used two whole rolls for a toddler sized tutu and only one for a baby (10 month old) size. Measure the length from the waist to where you want your tutu to stop. Double that number and that is how many inches you will need to cut your tulle. For example, I wanted the tutu to be 15 inches long for my toddler daughter so I cut 30 inch pieces. When I made the baby tutu, I only wanted it 8 inches long so I cut the tulle 16 inches long.

3. The easiest way to make the tutu is to put the elastic on your leg like a garter. Then start tying your tulle around the elastic. Make sure you double knot the tulle. Continue tying the tulle around the elastic until you are happy with how full it looks.

4. Now, get out your hot glue gun. Very carefully place hot glue on the double knots of your tulle. This is where you will stick your feathers. You will need to be patient and go slow.

5. Once you have a dot of hot glue on the knot, carefully place your feather on it. You may need to trim the tips of your feathers. A lot of the feathers I used had sharp pointy tips. I just snipped them off before sticking it to the hot glue.

6. When you are done your tutu will look like this. Next, hot glue some feathers to your metal hair clip or hairband and you have half the costume done. Find a matching onesie or shirt and add some orange leggings. Ta-dah! One little chickadee or blue bird or swan or whatever suits your fancy.

Easy Bath Towel Hoodies

This idea is from http://www.makeandtakes.com/easy-hooded-bath-towel

Supplies for Bath Towel Hoodies:


one large bath towel – any color
one hand towel – any color
fabric for letters – can be anything. I use fleece and it does pill, but I don’t mind as it doesn’t fray.
scissors, pins, sewing machine
extras: ric-rac, double bias tape

Updated: You only need one half of the hand towel to make one hooded bath towel. I usually buy 1 hand towel and 2 bath towels, and it gives me two hooded bath towels.

First, cut your hand towel in half horizontally. Then lay out your large bath towel on the floor and center one of the cut pieces of hand towel on top of the towel. Put the cut side up, so that the sewn end in the one being sewn to the large bath towel, then you don’t have to fold over the edge.

Pin the cut hand towel to the large towel and sew in place. It doesn’t really matter how you sew them together, I actually like to sew them on top of each other, not right sides together. But either is fine.

Fold your hood together in half, pairing the cut side together. Sew this together. I don’t mind that the seams show and will fray a little after washing, this is the part that is on the inside and their heads cover that.

You could be done here, but I like to add a few extras, a name or a shape to the back that I applique to the towel. I’m no expert and not a perfectionist, so most times the applique comes out a little wonky! I cut out letters/shape from fabric, pin them on, sew around each with a zig-zag stitch and call it good!